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Cambodia Personal Notes There are 11 million inhabitants in Cambodia and half of them are under 15 years old. After the atrocities committed in recent history by the Khmer Rouge, this is a population who has weathered times of great struggle and come out optimistic and enthusiastic to improve their quality of life and make the best of their future. I found this attitude impressive and inspiring among a people so tortured by their own in the past thirty years.Many tourists may choose to stay away from Cambodia because of its recent past, but the people of Cambodia are eager to host visitors from around the world and dispel images of terror which are associated Cambodia and replace them with a hearty welcome and an enjoyable stay in a country rich in culture and tradition.
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From Bangkok we flew Thai Airways to Phnom Penh. We got into the airplane and realized that the first 20 rows were empty. We waited; an hour later came in the sirens, limousines and the press. The Prime Minister of Cambodia and his wife, bodyguards and entourage boarded the plane. We were uneasy at first but we eventually descended on Phnom Penh without a problem. As we came out on the red carpet, hundreds of people cheered and bouquets were presented. Phnom Penh is such an interesting city. It is desperately poor, but the people are so nice and young and full of hope for their future.
We stayed at the fabulous Hotel Le Royal and I had a great massage at the Amrita Spa. Later on we went shopping and bought a bronze sculpture of Hanuman the monkey warrior and an antique silver elephant. However, these two items were packed after we had left, and when we got back to Canada months later and opened the box, the silver elephant had been replaced with a bronze pig.
PLACES TO SEE_________________________
One must view the Royal Palace. The grounds are really well kept; the architecture is Khmer style. Inside the silver temple (5000 silver tiles cover the floor) is the Emerald Buddha. There are over 1600 Buddha images of different sizes and material. One made of Jade; another one in gold called Buddha Maitreya weighs 198 lbs. and is inlaid with 2086 diamonds.The National Museum is not to miss. There are many pre-Angkor sculptures, and the setting is peaceful; a nice way to spend an afternoon. The Museum was designed in 1917 by French architect George Groslier.
One morning we went to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (former Khmer Rouge S-21 Prison). Atrocities where committed there and we saw many pictures of torture chambers and of people that were killed. It was a heart-breaking experience.
PLACES TO STAY________________________
Hotel le Royal, Phnom, Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia, 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh (off Monivong Boulevard), Sangkat Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia. Tel: 855-23-981-888, fax: 855-23-981-168. E-mail: raffles.hlr.ghda@bigpond.com.kh.
Intercontinental Phnom Penh, Regency Square, 296 Boulevard Mao Tse Toung, 855-23-424-888, phnompenh@interconti.com
RESTAURANTS_________________________
Xiang Palace, Intercontinental Hotel Phnom Penh. Fine Cantonese dining at the Intercontinental; they serve Dim Sum at lunch.
L'Imprevu, Route #1, 6km past the Monivong Bridge, 023-306405. Poolside restaurant and bar at the L’Imprevu Bungalows outside of Phnom Penh. French and international dishes prepared by a French chef.
Riverhouse, #6, Street 110 (corner of Sisowath Quay), 023-212302. Indoor and a/c seating with tasteful decor, or comfortable sidewalk tables. Mediterranean and Royal Khmer cuisine. Very nice tapas. Upstairs bar/lounge with an great view overlooking the river.
PLACES TO SHOP_______________________
Hanuman Tourism Co., Ltd., No. 223, 188, Vithei Preah Ang Eng., Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Tel: 855-23-724-022 and 855-23-428 883, fax: 855-23-427-865 and 855-23-211-916. E-mail: hanuman@bigpond.com.kh.
At Angkor Wat people were picking up water lilies in paddies surrounding the temple. These were used for ritual bathing in the 12th century. There are many Buddhist and Hindu sculptures and of course the lingam (a phallic symbol of the man-god power) at the center of each temple.
In the bas-reliefs of Angkor there are smiling Hindu dancers, tales of battles and victories, funeral processions and of the final judgement all carved in stone. One can visit for many days in that one complex. When visiting the Angkor complex, you can choose to purchase a 1-day, 3-day or 7-day entrance pass - it is worthwhile to spend at least three days visiting the temples at Angkor.
A taxi ride away and you are at Ta Prohm (Ancestor Brahma) built in 1186 by Jayavarman VII who dedicated this temple to his mother. A maze of chapels and sanctuaries covered by a kapok tree like a big hand protecting the spirits. The tree has literary grown over the temple. It was once the home of 72,200 people, 2470 monks and 600 dancers.
At the temple of Preah Palilay are sculptures of four human faces smiling peacefully. Such faces are seen at more then 50 towers at Bayon temple. They represent Jayavarman VII in his divine state. The faces are looking to the four cardinal points.
The temple at Bantaey Srei (known as the Citadel of Women) is the only temple made of pink sandstone 35 km from Siem Reap. It was quite an adventure to get there. The road were so bad that it took a jarring hour and a half to reach destination, rocks everywhere. The driver was afraid of mines; there are many mined roads in Cambodia as the Khmer Rouge kept it this way to maintain their strangle-hold on the people. Even today many areas are not open to tourists. However, the drive was worth the ordeal; the temple was in mint condition and beautifully sculpted.
We stayed at the Grand Hotel D’Ankor and loved it. Many European tourists with huge suitcases -- it only needed Inspector Poirot to complete the set. The hotel was built in 1929 and is part of the Raffles Group. The food was outstanding at Le Grand restaurant; traditional Khmer cuisine and very well served.
PLACES TO STAY________________________
Grand Hotel D’Angkor, Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia, a Raffles International Resort, 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap Kingdom Cambodia. Tel: 855-63-963-888, fax: 855-63-963-168. E-mail: raffles.grand@bigpond.com.kh.
Amrita Spa, Grand Hotel D’Angkor, 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap Kingdom of Cambodia, Tel: 855-63-963-888, fax: 63-963-168. E-mail: raffles.grand@bigpond.com.kh - offers Meditation with the Master, and Learn the Ancient Cambodian Art of Lotus Flower Folding.
RESTAURANTS_________________________
Le Grand, Grand Hotel D’Angkor, 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap Kingdom of Cambodia. Tel: 855-63-963-888, fax: 855-63-963-168. E-mail: raffles.grand@bigpond.com.kh.
The Elephant Bar is a very nice place to have a drink, Grand Hotel D’Angkor, 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem Reap Kingdom of Cambodia. Tel: 855-63-963-888, fax: 855-63-963-168. E-mail: raffles.grand@bigpond.com.kh.
SIEM REAP